Synonymous with bold, digitally generated prints, Mary Katrantzou turned off her computer this season to explore different ways of decorating clothes, primarily via lace, brocades, pleats and chainmail. It yielded an intriguing collection that was more approachable and luxurious than ever.
Along with road signs, badges and crests — corporate symbols of belonging – were a particular fixation. Katrantzou lined them up to create very unconventional Guipure, which she cut into sweatshirts as well as minidresses and evening gowns. They were surprisingly fetching. Crystal-flecked badges also assembled in dense, overly busy formations on the front of mink sweatshirts or long, narrow-sleeved gowns that had a whiff of recent Valentino.
Amidst all that dense decoration, some of the plainest clothes were the most striking, including lean wool topcoats, long skirts in color-blocked knife pleats and chainmail dresses, draped on the bias.